Located at the southernmost tip of South America, on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, Ushuaia is a unique place that attracts visitors from all across the globe. Nicknamed the “End of the World”, Ushuaia is a popular departure point for cruises heading to the Antarctic. The city itself is flanked by the Martial Mountains to one side and the famous Beagle Channel to the other.
Accommodation in Ushuaia for us consisted of finding a parking spot in front of the picturesque main port. After about 45 mins of patiently waiting for another vehicle to leave, we achieved this and spent the next week happily watching cruise ships of all shapes and sizes arrive from, and depart to, the ice continent.
Our first foray into the city was delayed as we emptied our entire wardrobes out into the “living room”. Having duly donned the vast majority of said wardrobes, we strolled up to the Fin del Mundo or “End of the World” museum. Ushuaia, like many places across the world, has a chequered history in terms of the relationship between western settlers and its indigenous people. The museum does an excellent job in explaining how the Yangon people were treated and the negative effect this subsequently had on their way of life. We subsequently had the good fortune to spend some time at the Maritime Museum, also located confidently located right in the heart of the city. The museum details many Antarctic expeditions which began in Ushuaia, something our kids really enjoyed learning about. Originally the city was founded to house criminals, the museum also explains how Ushuaia progressed from this to become one of the most important strategic locations in all of Argentina.
Boat trips in Ushuaia are a big attraction and we joined the crowds to visit penguins, sea lions and birds on the Beagle Channel. Unlike many South American places we have visited, Ushuaia is busy with tourists, and nowhere did we notice this more than that day. Our trip of 5 hours was shared with close to 200 other guests, each obviously very keen to get photos with the wildlife and surroundings. The trip itself was as advertised, we saw all that was promised and the friendly crew even helped our kids see some of the penguins up close from the captains’ bridge. However, having spent a few days budget on the tour, we did feel slightly short-changed by the overall experience.
After our time at sea, we decided that time in the Tierra del Fuego National Park was in order. Conveniently located less than an hour from the city, the park was an absolute delight. There were many short but highly rewarding hikes which we all loved. There were also relatively few visitors, allowing us to explore and rest in a wonderful sense of isolation in this stunning setting. We left the park bound for the city with renewed enthusiasm.
Ushuaia has many wonderful cafes, restaurants and shops for all budgets and styles. We enjoyed the next couple of days simply pottering about the city, escaping the cold with the odd hot chocolate and even picking up the complete set of Harry Potter books for our daughter, in English (what are the chances)?!
The Martial Glacier is an icon of Ushuaia. Located just 7km from the city and 1,000 meters above sea level, the hiking trail to the viewpoint is a test for most visitors. Our arrival was initially greeted with sunshine and little wind. Given the air temperature was hovering around zero degrees, this was certainly good news. Unfortunately a little more than halfway through the hike (2+ hours for us), the clear skies disappeared and were replaced by a snow storm. This resulted in a u-turn for us and a bitterly cold trek back down the mountain. While disappointed that we could not complete the hike, we really enjoyed the beautiful landscape that we had seen and had increased respect for those that call this part of the world their home.
Our last day at the end of the world was spent walking around the lagoon beside the city, to a small airstrip close to the commercial airport. The walk was very enjoyable, well laid out and with plenty to distract weary children along the way. The airstrip itself provided endless excitement, as budding pilots honed their skills landing and taking off in one single maneuver.
Leaving Ushuaia, with a very long trek north ahead of us, we could look back fondly on our time in the city. It is a place that has grown exponentially in recent years. While this has brought positives and negatives to both the locals and visitors, what has not changed is the beauty and accessibility of its surroundings. With the stunning national park, iconic mountains and icy-cold waters, it is blessed with everything you could ask for in terms of somewhere to visit. Just don’t forget your jacket…
Click here to read the “Ruta 40” travel guide
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