El Chalten was often mentioned in travel books and blogs as one of the recommended places to visit while traveling up the Ruta 40 in western Argentina. Located just north of Lake Viedma (a lake measuring a mere 1.5 times the size of county Dublin), it required a 200km detour to get there. Given our recent challenges with roads in Patagonia, we were initially hesitant to go but eventually decided we would make the effort. And how glad we were that we did.
The town itself is located within the Glacier National Park. Amazingly, it was only founded in 1985 and is considered Argentina’s newest town. It is a gateway to trails surrounding peaks such as Mount Fitzroy, and many less fearsome hikes, suitable for all shapes, sizes and ages.
We arrived to El Chalten after a 3.5 hour drive from El Calafate. For once on our travels, the town actually had public facilities for camper vans! There were water taps and hoses, places to empty toilets and even electricity hook-up points. A real treat for travellers used to next to no facilities. We even took the opportunity to give the campervan a deep clean, something long overdue. It should be noted that a deep clean of such a small living space really does not that very long!
The weather welcoming us was a little less kind than the facilities. It was cold (hovering around zero degrees) and the forecast was for rain. Given that we planned on hiking for a few days, this wasn’t the best news. In fact, while out buying groceries that afternoon, the four of us got absolutely soaked. Spirits were thus not particularly high going to sleep that first evening.
The morning brought a change in the skies, and consequently a change in moods and outlook. The hiking Gods had given us a window to do our 6km walk to the Cerro Torrre Viewpoint. The walk was beautiful, fantastically varied and full of things to keep the kids interested and enthused. We finished wishing for more.
Not to worry, any excess energy was initially burned off in the afternoon at the main playground and with games of family “tag”. We then had decided to hike to the Condor Viewpoint. While being a shorter walk, the inclination and high winds made for a decent challenge. The effort was worth it however, as we got to gaze up at high-flying condors as they eyed up potential dinners below. The day finished up with a meal in the campervan as the children did some colouring. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but for me, there is not a lot else I require to call it a great day.
The next morning was polar opposite. Tired minds and bodies were evident from first light, as our now-apparent over-exertion from the previous day caught up on us with a thud. When tempers had finally calmed, we decided that the best thing to do was to put the hiking boots on and get back out into nature!
We set our sights on the Mount Fitzroy Viewpoint, an 8km walk with stunning mountain scenery and forest trails. This was duly completed, albeit at a slower rhythm than yesterdays gung ho ascents. Our reward for the two days efforts was a pizza in one of the many local establishments. Diego hardly ate, however this was due to his infatuation with football and the match that was being shown the TV! The night was loud and a little uncomfortable. The rain and winds had eventually arrived to the town. The camper van shook at times as Patagonia reared its native voice.
The next morning was what I would call a campervan life admin morning. Toilets were emptied and water jugs were taken to fill our 120 litre tank. We bought groceries in the local health-food shop, collected laundry (no we don’t have a washing machine in the campervan!) and exchanged USD for Argentine Pesos. Last stop prior to leaving was a trip to the local petrol station. Given that there was no petrol station for a couple of hundred kilometers, this was an essential stop. The station itself was definitely not akin to the motorway service station that many of us may be used to. We had been warned that actually getting fuel is a bit hit and miss, however thankfully for us that day, they were well stocked and we filled our Grandullona to the brim. Fully loaded, we headed back towards the Ruta 40 passing the monstrous Lake Viedma.
The few days in El Chalten had been very rewarding. They had allowed us enjoy some of natures most impressive work, connect with each other, and challenge ourselves to complete something difficult. The days had also been intense, with the effort exerted taking its toll at times. However we were very grateful to all the guide books and blogs that had encouraged us to visit this tucked-away piece of Argentine heaven.
Click here to read the “Cave Art & Wildlife Galore” blog post
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