The north of Argentina is not as famous or well-travelled as other areas of this giant of a country. Yet having had the pleasure to visit here, I struggle to understand why this is the case. It is an incredible part of the country, full of spectacular landscapes, diverse cultures, fascinating history and truly hospitable people.
Our adventure in northern Argentina began in the middle of a heat wave, as we travelled west from Asuncion in Paraguay. As such, our first perceptions would probably not have been two thumbs up. We travelled through the Formosa and Chaco Provinces with an urgency that we had not shown previously on our travels. It could have been the 43 degree temperature during the day, or maybe the 35 degrees during the night, or perhaps even the wildfires to the side of the highway. But whatever the reason, we covered the 1,100km between the Paraguayan border and Salta in just two days. If it could have been in one, it would have been, that was the intensity of the heat.
Arriving into Salta via Ruta 9 was a similar experience to arriving into most South American cities. Busy, grey, full of mechanics and other car repair services, and generally pretty unattractive looking. Thankfully, this vista soon ended as we arrived to our campsite and rested for the night. The next day we started to visit this historic city in earnest.
Salta best is known for its Spanish colonial architecture, its beautiful cathedral and town hall, and its Museo de Arqueologica de Alta Montana (High Mountain Archeological Museum). This was our first stop of the day, and a highly impactful one at that. The museum centres on the discoveries of mummified remains of two children and a young woman from the Inca period, discovered on the Llullaillaco volcano between Argentina and Chile. Learning about the ceremonial ritual that led to the sacrifice of the children was a moving experience, and certainly an eye-opener for our two young children.
After a tasty local lunch, and an ice cream to relax minds after our earlier exploits, we stopped at the Museo Guemes as we had heard great reviews. This museum tracks the positive influence the Guemes family have had on the history of the Salta Province and city. We learned about General Martin Miguel de Guemes and his crucial role in the war of independence against the Spanish, and about his subsequent death in 1821. The museum also cleverly uses technology to keep the attention of visitors both young and old throughout (often not an easy feat)!
South of Salta is a spectacular drive that I would challenge anyone to say that they did not enjoy. Ruta 68 travels 200km south of the city to the charming small town of Cafayate. Yet it is in the second half of this journey that really takes your breath away. Quebrada de las Conchas, or Shell’s Ravine in English, is a 60km stretch of road that winds its way through some of the most spectacular landscapes you could ever hope to see. Think the best of the Grand Canyon and Utah’s National Parks, and you will have an idea of what this area is like. We hugely enjoyed driving, but also getting out of the camper van and exploring this unique land. There are more famous stopping points such as Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) that are well worth visiting, but simply pulling in at any point and trekking off the beaten track will be hugely rewarding. The town of Cafayate was also lovely on arrival. Being the meeting point of the Ruta 40 and Ruta 68, it is a hive for all types of travellers and a great place to meeting like-minded people.
Heading back north via Salta, we proceed to the smaller but no less appealing city of San Salvador de Jujuy. Known simply as Jujuy, this was once a crucial trade route between Potosi in Bolivia and cities further to the south. However, the 1863 earthquake levelled it and it took many decades to recover. We were immediately impressed upon arrival, parking beside the river and walking the banks of it in pleasant evening sun. We also got to enjoy the sight and sounds of marching bands eagerly practising ahead of the upcoming Easter celebrations. The people were also super-friendly, approaching us and our camper van, eager to understand why we had chosen to visit their small city. In terms of places to visit, the usual main plazas were walked to, but we really just enjoyed strolling without a particular destination in mind.
As we continued north from Jujuy, including further altitude gains (Jujuy itself already sits at 1,250m above sea level), we came across the tiny town of Timbaya. We intially stopped to admire the views, but discovered a lovely short walk leading to the local cemetery on a hill overlooking the town. Continuing on the Ruta 9, we drove to the more well-known town of Purmamarca. This is famous due to its location at the base of of a striking, multi-coloured mountain called Cerro Siete Colores, or Seven Coloured Mountain. This spectacular sight is as described, and provides an incredible backdrop to a beautiful town in its own right. We loved our walk from town to mountain (c.1 hour), but equally the hot chocolate on offer back in the town as evening temperatures plunged.
Having stopped for lunch and a stroll in Tilcara, another tourist-favourite, we continued towards Humamaca. We briefly stopped at the Tropic of Capricorn statue on the side of the road. In typical South American tourist style, the monument was badly signposted and poorly kept. This didn’t stop our arrival and subsequent memory of the place however, particularly after Olivia got her foot and sandal stuck in sinking mud on the short walk back to the car!
Humamaca itself was a forgettable enough town, particularly compared to the likes of Purmamarca. A visit to Hornocal, and the Cerro de 14 Colores (14 Coloured Mountain) was really what brought us here. To get there we got a 4*4 tour from the town square. As we bumped and banged our way along challenging roads towards the summit at 4,350m, we all agreed that this was a very good use of our family finances. The views at the top were truly breath-taking. Even our children appreciated the beauty on show, and volunteered to hike down to another viewpoint and back again. Despite the altitude challenges this brought, we could not have enjoyed our day more and were delighted we had the good fortune to visit such a magical place.
Our last stop in the north of Argentina was La Quiaca. This is a border town with Villazon in Bolivia. Sitting at an altitude of 3,450m, you are likely to see plenty of cocoa leaves being chewed night and day by the locals to stave off the effects of living at such a height. In terms of natural beauty and specific sights to see, the town cannot match many of its close-by compatriots. Yet the openness, friendliness and kindness of the locals more than makes up for any lack of “must-sees”. We spent 10 days here playing in the local parks, meeting and eating with the locals and generally just recharging batteries with genuinely good folk.
Having made the very good decision to come to this part of Argentina, we could not speak highly enough about the places we visited and the people we met. Tourism should be huge here, but it merely plays a small supporting role in the lives of the locals. Perhaps this is one of the reasons that makes visiting here so appealing. It’s hard to say really though, as there are so many.
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