The Chilean Lake District runs for about 1,000km in length, and is without doubt one of the most beautiful areas in the country. The area includes cities such as Villarica, Pucon, Valdivia, Osorno, Puerto Varas and Puerto Montt, and twelve major lakes nestled in the Andes Mountains. We had the pleasure to visit a few of these incredible places as we made our way south from the capital Santiago towards the Carretera Austral in Patagonia.
Our trip from the capital began with a couple of long drives along the PanAmerican Highway. This amazing road runs almost uninterrupted from Alaska to Argentina, a distance of 30,000km (a break of 100km in the Darian Gap between Panama and Colombia is the only gap). Luckily for us, the section we travelled on was in very good condition and we covered the 750km to Villarica in two uneventful days.
Arriving late in the evening on the shore of Lake Villarica, there was not much to see. As such, we parked up, made dinner and headed to our beds. The morning brought a very different sight, as the Villarica Volcano stood dwarfing the lake, the city and anything else that had the nerve to raise its head above the parapet. Not content with looking imposing, this perfect looking volcano could not even be visited, due to the very recent volcanic activity. Our time was thus spent wandering the town, enjoying its various playgrounds, and walking alongside the gorgeous lake.
As short drive alongside the lake brought us to Pucon, another beautiful lakeside location, again set against the backdrop of the Villarica Volcano. Here were stayed a couple of nights, enjoying the local cuisine and culture. However, we were still getting to know our camper van and how to make it run smoothly for us (think filling large water tanks, emptying smell toilets etc.). This led us on several wild goose chases as we searched in vain for places to resolve such pressing issues. Giving up on the camper van needs, we focused on the human needs and drove for a waterfall a little bit outside the city. As we learned that day, and continue to learn on this adventure, going with the flow is a much better tactic. Arriving at the waterfall parking, we were greeted by both usable toilets and a water tap with hose (literally an overlander’s idea of heaven!). The waterfall itself was great, as was our use of the facilities.
Delighted with our afternoon, we headed to the less well known village of Caburgua and its accompanying lake. The locals told us that in summer the place is overrun with visitors. Our October visit was a little different, as we were literally the only non-locals in town. The location was truly stunning, surrounded by mountains with nothing but a glistening lake to steal the eye. We spent a few days there swimming, hiking, playing on the beach together and generally just feeling gratitude for where we were.
Leaving Caburgua was not easy, given the wonderful time we spent enjoying all that nature had blessed it with. But we now had our sights on Puerto Varas so were back on the road. On the journey there we passed the stunning Osorno Volcano, 2,652m tall with an almost perfect cone shape. Although it has had eleven recorded eruptions, the lack of volcanic activity for many years has led to skiing, hiking and other recreational activities becoming very popular.
Arriving in Puerto Varas, we immediately felt at home. Known as the “City of Roses”, it is a place as well looked after as you will find on the continent. Set on the expansive Lake Llanquihue with Osorno Volcano providing the background, picture-perfect barely does it justice. We found a great place on the edge of town to stay with our camper van, overlooking everything we could have wanted to see. We now noted the weather change as we approached Patagonia. Gone were mid-20 degree days, replaced by colder temperatures and an abundance of very fresh wind.
Well clothed, we set about exploring Puerto Varas. Artisanal markets were visited and their coffers well and truly replenished. The waterfront was walked and many a stone skimmed. We also visited the wonderful Pablo Fierro Museum, a place we would recommend anyone to visit if they come to this part of the world. Pablo has turned his home into an eclectic collection of anything and everything. There is something for everyone to enjoy, no matter their age. He is also a lovely human being, softly spoken but intensely passionate about what he continues to create there.
We left Puerto Varas for Puerto Montt, which would be our last stop in the Chilean Lake District. Puerto Montt was larger than any of the other places we had been south of Santiago. It is the starting point for many visitors to the region, who fly in to begin their trips. It is also a port city, commercial hub and gateway to the Andes Mountains and Patagonian fjords. None of the above went unnoticed as we arrived into the busy, functional city. Having been spoiled by the beauty and relative remoteness of locations further north, we found the city a lot less appealing than other spots in the Lake District.
We should of course caveat this by detailing our own activities and experiences during our time there. We had our camper van engine serviced, we repaired some outstanding issues in the living part of the camper van, we stocked up on essential supplies ahead of the Carratera Austral and I visited A&E suffering from a strong flu. So maybe its a big like trying to compare apples and oranges I hear you say…and you may have a point!
The Lake District provided some beautiful nature for us to enjoy. We probably only visited a quarter of the so-called “must-see” places, but we could easily see why this part of the world is regarded so highly. Also, visiting outside of the summer-rush gave us a huge sense of privilege to be able to enjoy such places with so few others around. Certainly it is somewhere that we would recommend a visit to.
Click here to read the “Patagonia (Chile)” travel guide
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